Which ingredients in cosmetics only spoil acne-prone skin - and what to replace them with

That's why people with problem skin either don't change their skincare for years or desperately test everything in the hope of a miracle. And yes, they often fall into the trap of "fashionable" ingredients that only worsen the situation.

Dermatologists advise: read the ingredients (INCI) and avoid the following ingredients.

Top 7 enemies of acne skin

1. Alcohol (isopropylalcohol, ethanol) - dries the skin to the crust. In response, it starts producing more sebum, and voila - new pimples.

2. Fragrances - scents like lavender or citrus sound nice, but can cause inflammation.

3. Coconut oil and cocoa butter - good for the body, but not for the face. They clog pores.

4. Lanolin, isopropyl myristate and isopropyl palmitate - frequent "passengers" of moisturising creams, but for skin with acne - like sugar for cavities.

5. Silicones (dimethicone) - not always bad, but in sensitive skin can trap bacteria and grease inside pores.

6. SLS (Sodium Lauryl Sulfate) - foams great, but destroys the skin's protective barrier.

7. Petrolatum (petroleum jelly) - retains moisture, but so does dirt and bacteria.

What about scarring?

Did your pimples go away, but the marks remain? Don't make it worse:

• Hydroquinone - whitens blemishes, but can irritate the skin if used for long periods of time.

• Retinoids - powerful against acne and scars, but overdo it and your skin goes up in flames.

• Scrubs - forget it. Mechanical friction is the path to more inflammation.

What really helps

Fortunately, there is a "light side of strength":

• Salicylic acid - cleans pores from the inside out.

• Niacinamide - soothes, takes away redness.

• Zinc - heals and regulates oiliness.

• Benzoyl peroxide - kills bacteria, reduces acne.

• Azelaic acid - against inflammation and spots after acne.

• Hypochlorite - kills bacteria without damaging the skin.

• Hyaluronic acid - moisturises without clogging pores.

One last tip

Even the "right" ingredients may not work for you personally. It's always worth testing a new product on a small area of skin. And do not panic if at the beginning of the use of salicylic or retinoid went new pimples - this is the "cleansing phase", and it is temporary.