How kings and bishops dressed: scientists recreate the clothes of ancient Nubia

It's about a rare reconstruction of a lost culture.

Details

The study focuses on the medieval kingdom of Makuria, which existed in present-day Sudan from the ninth to the fourteenth century.

Researchers used frescoes from temples, textual sources and archaeological findings to reconstruct the appearance of the garments. In the end, five sets were created: for two kings, two "royal mothers" and a bishop.

The reconstructions showed that the clothing was not merely utilitarian, but strictly symbolic.

Kings in the early period dressed in the Byzantine style - with cloaks and decorative inserts reminiscent of imperial attire. Later, however, their appearance changed, with more local, Nubian elements in their clothes.

At the same time, the church hierarchs continued to adhere to the Byzantine style, despite the fact that Nubia belonged to the Egyptian Christian tradition.

Special attention was paid to the figure of the "royal mother". Her image emphasised the link between power and religion and was often associated with the image of the Virgin Mary.

To achieve accuracy, the researchers reconstructed fabrics, dyes and manufacturing techniques - including weaving, embroidery and dyeing with natural pigments.

The finished costumes have been shown in exhibitions in the Louvre, Berlin and London.

Why it matters

Clothing in Nubia fulfilled a political and religious function.

It:

• demonstrated status and ancestry
• emphasised the relationship of power to the Church
• reflected cultural change and the identity of the society

Such reconstructions provide a better understanding of how power looked and functioned in ancient societies.

Background

Nubia adopted Christianity in the 6th century under the influence of Byzantium. The Macurian state became one of the largest Christian centres in Africa, where the power of the king and the church were closely linked.

Source

The study is based on archaeological data, frescoes and texts about the kingdom of Macurius. The work was published in the journal Antiquity (2026). Photo by Paulina Matusiak & Eddy Wenting, Innemée et al. 2026