Why China is buying up almost all the world's durian

Durian, a fruit with a pungent odour and a highly controversial taste, was once disliked rather than admired by the Chinese. In the 15th century, the translator Ma Huan, who accompanied Admiral Zheng He on his Ming maritime expeditions, described durian as "a stinking fruit that smells like rotten meat".

Six centuries later, however, the situation has changed radically. Today, China is the world's largest importer of durian, accounting for about 95 per cent of global demand. In 2024, imports will reach a record nearly $7 billion, turning the fruit into an important economic and political tool.

Durian as a diplomatic gift

The popularity of durian in China is so great that Southeast Asian countries are using its exports to strengthen relations with Beijing. The practice of "durian diplomacy" has existed for decades, The Conversation writes.

For example, in 1975, Thai Prime Minister Kukrit Pramod presented the Chinese leadership with 200 durians. In 2024, King Ibrahim of Malaysia, during a state visit, presented Chinese President Xi Jinping with two boxes of elite durians, including the Musang King variety, which is called "Hermès among durians" in China.

Earlier in the year, Chinese Premier Li Qiang and Malaysian Prime Minister Anwar Ibrahim were caught on camera together cutting durian with a knife and spoon, the traditional way of eating it.

The economic impact for Southeast Asia

However, durian is not just a symbol of friendship. The massive Chinese demand has become an engine of economic growth for entire regions of Southeast Asia.

Farmers previously living in poverty have gained a steady income. Malaysian farmer Eric Chan told the New York Times that exporting durians to China has allowed his town's residents to convert their wood-to-brick houses and send their children to study abroad.

In Vietnam, the rise of durian exports has opened up access to the Chinese market for other agricultural commodities as well. And Malaysian authorities have explicitly stated that they expect to use durian to attract Chinese investment in agribusiness and processing.

"China's Food Silk Road

For China, the durian trade is part of a broader strategy. Since coming to power in 2013, Xi Jinping has repeatedly emphasised the importance of food security. Experts call this approach the formation of a "food Silk Road" - a network of trade agreements and investments to diversify food imports.

Durian is just one element of this system. China is also a key market for:

• new Zealand golden kiwi,

• chilean cherries,

• kenyan avocados, which are growing rapidly.

Against the backdrop of trade wars and US tariff policies, China has been able to strengthen its position in the region. In the first quarter of 2025, imports of agricultural products from ASEAN countries reached $7.5 billion, up 14 per cent from a year earlier.

The downside of the durian boom

The industry's rapid growth also brings risks. In Indonesia, Laos and Malaysia, the expansion of durian plantations has led to deforestation, disrupted ecosystems and threatened rare species, including the Malayan tiger.

In addition, countries in the region face the challenges of increasing foreign control over supply chains and the instability of the global economy.

Experts note: the main challenge for Southeast Asia is to capitalise on Chinese demand without losing environmental sustainability and economic sovereignty.