Glycolic acid: the secret to clear skin and shiny hair

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Glycolic acid is an all-rounder: fights acne, wrinkles and dandruff
19:00, 01.08.2025

Why glycolic acid has become an all-purpose treatment for skin and hair.



Glycolic acid, derived from sugar cane, is today considered one of the most effective yet gentle acids for skin care and even hair care. Due to its minimal molecular size, it penetrates deep into the skin, providing intense yet gentle exfoliation.

As explained by board-certified dermatologist Mona A. Gohara, MD, glycolic acid acts like an invisible broom, removing dead cells and helping skin become fresher and more radiant.

Its main mechanism of action is to dissolve the "glue" that holds old cells together on the surface of the skin. They are then easily exfoliated and healthy skin appears in their place.

Studies show that glycolic acid can also stimulate collagen production, resulting in reduced wrinkles and improved skin texture.

Glycolic acid is often found in the formulations of cleansing gels, toners, creams and serums. It helps to even out texture, fights fine lines and hyperpigmentation, and prevents acne. Products with the acid are especially popular among those who suffer from acne, rosacea or blemishes after inflammation.

Recently, glycolic acid has become a trend at TikTok as an alternative to conventional deodorants: it helps fight bad odour and lighten underarm skin prone to darkening due to shaving or irritation. Due to its antibacterial properties, glycolic acid is often included in natural deodorants and body care products.

In addition, it is excellent for dealing with skin irregularities, such as keratosis (chicken skin effect).

Glycolic acid is also used in hair care: scrubs and scalp masks with this component effectively remove styling residues, sebum and dandruff, as well as regulate oiliness. As part of hair products, the acid is able to penetrate into the structure of the hair, temporarily making it softer and shinier.

Most products with glycolic acid in free sale contain less than 15% of this component, which is considered safe for home use.

Dermatologists advise starting care with small concentrations (5-7%) and always conduct a sensitivity test, especially if you plan to use on sensitive areas (underarms, bikini area). In higher doses (15% and above), the acid can only be used professionally, as the risk of irritation, burns and hyperpigmentation increases.

However, the combination of glycolic acid with other active ingredients - e.g. retinoids, benzoyl peroxide or pure vitamin C - should be avoided to avoid irritation.

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Maria Grynevych

Maria Grynevych, project manager, journalist, co-author of Guidebook Sacred Mountains of the Dnieper Region, Lecture Course: Cult Topography of the Middle Dnieper Region.

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