A new beauty trend promises youthfulness without Botox. Details

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"Skin longevity" instead of anti-ageing: how the beauty industry is changing its approach to ageing
20:30, 18.07.2025

Anti-ageing cosmetics are becoming a thing of the past, replaced by the concept of skin longevity.



According to the ELLE authors, this is not just a rebranding of old creams, but a new approach based on science, biohacking and wellness philosophy.

The trend is rapidly gaining popularity: Stanford dermatologists are talking about it, Estée Lauder and L'Oreal are launching products, and social media stars are including it in their "care protocols".

What is skin longevity

Skin longevity is not a fight against aging, but a strategy for slowing it down through improving overall skin health.

"Your skin looks better because it works better. Longevity is about optimal cell function," explains Zakia Rahman, a dermatologist at Stanford University.

Companies like Augustinus Bader go further and offer AI platforms to assess the biological age of your skin. Their approach is not to "erase" wrinkles, but to strengthen cellular activity and stress resistance.

"Our goal is to keep skin cells as healthy as possible and protect them from premature aging," explains Alan Vigero, chief scientific officer at Galderma.

Skin longevity is based on the scientific discovery of so-called senescent or "zombie" cells, which stop functioning but continue to exist, provoking inflammation and accelerating ageing. These are the ones that most of the new formulas fight against. Antioxidants, retinol, peptides, polynucleotides - these are all familiar ingredients, but now they are getting a new positioning.

Is Botox out of the picture? Opinions are divided

What does skin longevity include and what does not? According to Charles Rosier (Augustinus Bader), Botox is out:

"It weakens the muscles, and our philosophy is to enhance skin elasticity." However, Dr Rahman disagrees: "Botox improves the quality of the skin at a deep level, especially in areas of scarring or atrophy."

Experts believe sunscreen and vitamin C are the "protective" basis of skin longevity. Retinoids, fillers like Radiesse or Sculptra, and even salmon DNA-based treatments (PDRN) fall under the "regenerative" category.

Even plastic surgery can be part of the approach.

"People want to understand in advance how they're going to age and prepare for that," says New York-based dermatologist Shirin Idriss. The key is not to stop ageing, but to manage it consciously.

Dieux brand founder Charlotte Palermino adds:

"It's like fitness for the skin - you make it stronger and more resilient."

In her opinion, skin longevity has become a way of talking about beauty in a universal language. It appeals not only to women but also to men, especially those interested in biohacking.

"It's a capitalist dream to make beauty acceptable to men and inspiring to women," Palermino ironises.

For all its appeal, skin longevity could turn into "anti-ageing with a different typeface".

"My fear is that the industry will reduce it to a trivial pursuit of youth," Palermino says.

But she believes skin longevity has a chance to become the new standard - not the idea of "not aging" but the idea of aging beautifully.

Dr Rahman recalls a conversation with a colleague studying epigenetics:

"I told him - it's not about vanity. It's about vitality."

This, she says, became "a moment of epiphany."

The conclusion is simple: skincare isn't about fighting age. It's about taking care of yourself. And if the industry follows this path, we may be in for a truly honest conversation about aging for the first time in the history of beauty.

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Maria Grynevych

Maria Grynevych, project manager, journalist, co-author of Guidebook Sacred Mountains of the Dnieper Region, Lecture Course: Cult Topography of the Middle Dnieper Region.