Saffron: ancient spice, new cult in skincare

Saffron has been used for centuries in rituals and cookery, but has now made its way into the world of luxury cosmetics, says Harper's Bazaar India.

Once used in rituals, it is now used in serums, oils and cleansers. The ancient Ayurvedic ingredient has become a symbol of luxury care, combining heritage, science and beauty.

Scientifically, the active compounds prized in saffron are crocin, crocetin and safranal, which improve skin tone, soothe inflammation and strengthen the protective barrier. This radiance is the effect of healthy, "glowing from within" skin.

For Ayurvedic brands, the importance of saffron goes beyond the visual effect.

"It gives not only an outward glow but also inner peace. It is a sattvic (pure) ingredient that affects both the skin and the mind," explains Astha Kathpitiya, head of Shankara India.

Kashmiri saffron from the Pampore region is a special pride. It is hand-picked at dawn and dried in the traditional way to preserve the bioactive substances.

"Time and place of harvesting are important concepts in Ayurveda and directly affect the potency of an ingredient," says Dr Taruna Yadav of Forest Essentials.

Modern brands emphasise not only quality but also transparency of origin.

Saffron cosmetics are evolving from the traditional taila paka (herbal oil) to light, versatile textures.

"Our challenge is to keep the efficacy but adapt the rituals to the rhythm of modern life," says Vivek Sahni of Kama Ayurveda. Today, these include pH-friendly cleansers, SPF serums and non-greasy moisturisers.

Even short-acting products, like the saffron, aloe and neem wash gel, provide a soothing and brightening effect.

To preserve the activity of saffron, especially in emulsions and light serums, cold extraction is used.