Next-generation smart cosmetics: care that responds to emotions

This trend is based on the idea that skin is directly linked to a person's emotional state, which means that cosmetics can not only care for, but also respond to stress, fatigue and anxiety.

According to Harper's Bazaar India, scientists and brands are increasingly turning their attention to how stress affects the skin.

"Stress triggers a cascade of hormonal and immune responses through the hypothalamic-pituitary-adrenal axis," explains Dr Alia Ahmed, dermatologist and brand consultant at Tolpa.

She notes that cortisol, a stress hormone, can weaken the skin's protective barrier, slow healing, cause inflammation and accelerate aging.

The authors of the paper believe that conditions such as eczema, psoriasis, acne and even dull complexion are directly linked to emotional background. A 2017 Evers-Meltzer report confirms this: 85% of patients with skin conditions attribute their condition to psychological factors.

This is where neurocosmetics come into play - products that interact not only with the skin, but also with its emotional "memory". One example is Harmonie serum from Neuraé (sister brand of Sisley Paris), which uses neuroactive ingredients such as scutellaria alpine for endorphin production, red indigo to reduce cortisol levels and eperui extract to reduce inflammation. In clinical trials, 95 per cent of women reported a sense of well-being immediately after application.

"Our skin and brain are connected through neurotransmitters - chemical mediators that tolerate emotional and physical stress," explains Pauline Poussin, scientific communication manager at Neuraé.

Fragrance, texture and application ritual also play a role, she says: "The sensory perception of a product can activate the production of serotonin and oxytocin, having a direct impact on emotional well-being."

Many such products also utilise adaptogens - substances that help the body cope with stress. These include ashwagandha, ginseng, rhodiola. As part of cosmetics, they help restore balance, protect against oxidative stress and strengthen the skin barrier.

According to Dr Ahmed, "neurocosmetic ingredients can already reduce redness, increase skin hydration and even reduce pain sensitivity." She emphasises that advanced cosmetics act through the skin-brain connection, and the early results of this work are promising.

Experts believe we are on the cusp of a revolution in skincare, where familiar products become 'smart' and respond to internal states. In the future, this could change not only our attitudes to skincare, but also our very understanding of beauty - as a reflection of emotional wellbeing.

So the next time you apply a serum, it's worth thinking, "How am I feeling?" Your skin may already know the answer.