Косметичні експерименти минулого, що шокують нас сьогодні

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Beauty requires sacrifices: how cosmetics changed from ancient Egypt to the present day
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08:00, 11.11.2024

Tell me, who hasn't heard the phrase "beauty needs sacrifice" at least once? When you study the history of cosmetics, you realise what this expression is based on.



After all, in ancient (and not so ancient) times, to be beautiful, people made not just sacrifices, but literally killed themselves just to conform to modern canons.

We invite you to a brief but very informative excursion into the history of cosmetics.

Ancient Egypt: luxury and danger in every stroke

Косметичні експерименти минулого, що шокують нас сьогодні

In ancient Egypt, cosmetics was the first language of beauty. Egyptian women used a black eye paint known as kohl, based on antimony and lead. Although these substances were poisonous, they were used every day. Black-rimmed eyes became a symbol of beauty and even protection from evil spirits, as the Egyptians believed.

Now you can confidently say that Cleopatra's magical look was murderous in the literal and figurative senses.

Ancient Rome: lead on the face

Косметичні експерименти минулого, що шокують нас сьогодні

Roman women strived for "perfectly white skin," so they used lead-based whitewash. The toxic metal not only caused poisoning, but also weakened the skin, causing premature aging. However, the lighter the skin was, the higher the status of the wearer or owner. Yes, men at that time did not shun cosmetics either.

As you can understand, here too, beauty had a double effect, attracted attention and prematurely put in the coffin.

Japan, Heian era: white face paste and black teeth

Косметичні експерименти минулого, що шокують нас сьогодні

In Japan, during the Heian era, women covered their faces with white paste made from rice flour to create a porcelain effect. The tradition of "Ohaguro" - dyeing teeth black - gave even more elegance and symbolised wisdom and status. When white teeth were seen, it was said that the person was not looking after themselves. This procedure was expensive, so it was done by aristocrats, and ordinary people could afford it only on holidays.

It also prevented tooth decay! I wonder if today's modern black toothpastes are a tribute to Ohaguro?

Renaissance and toxic beauty: Venice as a centre of cosmetic experimentation

Косметичні експерименти минулого, що шокують нас сьогодні

In Venice, where beauty was of great importance, women used lead whitewash, iron red lipstick and even mercury-based cosmetics. Hairstyles could be soaked in gold and cosmetics became an important attribute of the aristocracy, despite serious health risks.

Now we think, what if Catherine de Medici didn't poison anyone, but just wanted to make people more beautiful?

Georgian England: flies and fancy pastels

Косметичні експерименти минулого, що шокують нас сьогодні

In the 18th century, the fashion for the "fly" reached its peak. Applied flies on the face drew attention away from skin imperfections resulting from the use of lead whitewash (okay, lead still rules). Blushes became pastel shades and were used to give a more vibrant look, but mostly for holidays.

So we get it right, you're white as death but with a Romanian? Well..

Victorian England: understated beauty and mysterious elixirs

Косметичні експерименти минулого, що шокують нас сьогодні

In Queen Victoria's time, women abandoned bright cosmetics in favour of a natural look that symbolised honesty and modesty. Only skin elixirs and hair oils remained popular.

To us here, a bird on the tail brought us a curious fact. It turns out that Victoria disapproved of feminism. Perhaps that's why she started the fashion for women to look natural? Who knows!

Early 20th century: the emergence of Max Factor and changes in the cosmetics industry

Косметичні експерименти минулого, що шокують нас сьогодні

In 1914, Max Factor, an immigrant from Poland, created special cosmetics for the film industry. It was a breakthrough: his products did not reflect light and lay down moderately, creating a natural look in the frame. Max Factor created the first lipstick and powder suitable for everyday use.

And we know that Max lived in Odessa for a while. And from there he emigrated to America.

History of Maybelline mascara: how fire and vaseline created a cult product

Косметичні експерименти минулого, що шокують нас сьогодні

In 1915, a young girl named Mabel dreamed of bright and expressive eyes. One day, she accidentally set her eyelashes on fire while trying to curl them by the fire (what you don't do for beauty!) and so her brother Thomas, a chemist by profession, decided to help her. He took ordinary Vaseline and mixed it with coal dust to create a mascara. Her sister was thrilled with the result! Her friends started asking for this miracle mixture and Thomas realised that this could be a real beauty discovery. And his sister's name became the name of the brand.

How simple and ingenious!

Cosmetics during World War II: Victory Colour Lips

Косметичні експерименти минулого, що шокують нас сьогодні

During the Second World War, red lipstick became a symbol of support and optimism. Brands released shades with eloquent names like "Victory" and "Courage2," and women, even in times of scarcity, tried to preserve at least a bit of femininity to support the military with their beauty.

It seems that we urgently need "victory" lipsticks!

Cosmetics of the 1950s-60s: the era of glamour and innovation

Косметичні експерименти минулого, що шокують нас сьогодні

the 1950s was a period of growing interest in cosmetics thanks to style icons such as Marilyn Monroe. Women became fascinated with lipstick, eyeshadow and eyeliner. Among the new products were waterproof mascara, as well as more permanent facial products that could last longer. Being without make-up at that time was like going out naked.

Girls, who's ever had a fly like Merlin's?

The natural revolution of the 1970s

Косметичні експерименти минулого, що шокують нас сьогодні

In the 1970s, cosmetics were influenced by the "natural trend". The rejection of toxic dyes and the turn to more organic ingredients was the impetus for a new era of "clean cosmetics" that continues today.

Something was finally starting to reach humanity. Better late than never.

The evolution of cosmetics is a fascinating transformation. Each stage reflects the cultural values, fashion trends and scientific advances that have taken it from toxic lead to safe, stylish and diverse products. One thing remains, but a very important one. That cosmetics stop being tested on animals and then we will be perfectly happy!

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Maria Grynevych

Maria Grynevych, project manager, journalist, co-author of Guidebook Sacred Mountains of the Dnieper Region, Lecture Course: Cult Topography of the Middle Dnieper Region.