Poisonous sea fish has been turned into a popular dish

Cypriot fishermen are increasingly catching not the usual sea bass or mullet, but the wingfish (lionfish), a dangerous invasive species that is spreading rapidly in the Mediterranean Sea. This exotic fish with poisonous spines threatens the local ecosystem and traditional fisheries, but Cyprus has found an unexpected way to combat it: turning the problem into a gastronomic solution, writes the Associated Press.

Invasive species is crowding out native fish

The wingfish has entered the Mediterranean from the Red Sea amid rising water temperatures and the expansion of the Suez Canal. This predator has almost no natural enemies, so it is actively destroying native fish species, dealing a serious blow to biodiversity.

According to Cypriot fishermen, catches of traditional species have dropped dramatically. Veteran fisherman Fotis Gaitanos, who has been fishing off the coast of Larnaca for over 40 years, admits that he has not caught the popular red mullet for several years.

The situation is exacerbated by another invasive species, the silverhead tetraodon, which has powerful net-breaking jaws and a deadly toxin. These fish are unfit for consumption and only add to fishermen's losses.

Climate is changing the sea - and the economy

The European Fisheries Commission notes that the Mediterranean Sea is warming about 20 per cent faster than the global average, making the region particularly vulnerable to the migration of invasive species.

Scientists predict that by the end of the century, the winged fish could spread throughout the Mediterranean Sea. Already, the fish has made its way to the Ionian Sea, where Italian authorities are asking people to report any sightings of the species.

Because of the invasive fish, fishermen face not only a drop in catches, but also rising costs to repair gear damaged by the aggressive species.

The EU is paying for the catch, but it's not enough

To mitigate the impact, the EU has launched several support programmes. One of them provides compensation for catching tetraodon - about €4.7 per kilogramme- after which the fish is disposed of.

There is also the RELIONMED project, under which divers selectively destroy the wings in reef areas and marine reserves. However, experts recognise that such measures only temporarily contain the problem.

"Eat the enemy": the wingfish as a meal

Fishermen are pinning their hopes on popularising the wingfish as a food product. Once the poisonous spines are removed, the fish is completely safe and, as chefs assure us, has tender and tasty meat.

Since 2021, a #TasteTheOcean campaign has been running in Europe, with renowned chefs and gastroinfluencers promoting the invasive species as an alternative to familiar fish. Cypriot tavernas are gradually incorporating wingfish into traditional meze.

An added plus is the price: in Larnaca's fish markets, wingfish is more than half the price of the popular sea bass.

Stefanos Mentonis, the owner of a fish tavern in Larnaca, notes that many guests hear about wings for the first time, but after tasting them they recognise that they are just as good as the usual species.

Ecology through gastronomy

According to European officials, including invasive species in the diet can both help the environment and support the fishing industry.

"If we start eating wingfish, we will turn a threat into an opportunity - and reduce pressure on marine ecosystems," the EU said.